A Designer Who Belongs Among Italy's Greatest: Emilio Federico Schuberth

A Designer Who Belongs Among Italy's Greatest: Emilio Federico Schuberth

Being here in Italy, I'm feeling inspired to learn more about the country's roots in fashion. Beyond the designers and fashion houses whose names are ubiquitous around the world (Gucci, Prada, Valentino), I want to learn more about what animates the Italian approach to getting dressed. I was doing some research on the topic, when I came across this dress:

Schuberth, F/W 1952-3, Italian silk and cotton

Schuberth, F/W 1952-3, Italian silk and cotton

I (of course) clicked the image and learned of a designer named Emilio Federico Schuberth who was considered one of the most important Italian couturiers of the 20th century; Valentino was his student. From The Met's description of the designer:

"...a rather identifiable Italian aesthetic...can be credited to the custom designs of early couturiers like Emilio Schuberth...His clothing embodied the concept of la bella figura, [which]...communicated Italy's inherent sensuality, grace, and love of leisure, all qualities that would later signify Italian style in global consumption."

Still, I'd never heard of Schuberth before. It's always strange to me when some artists, or designers, or musicians fade into the annals of history despite a significant contribution to their respective art forms as we've come to know them. In the fashion world, Charles James might be another notable example, although the 2014 exhibition of his work at The Met certainly advanced the case that he was one of the great minds and talents in the history of fashion. In any event, it's never too late to celebrate someone's achievements, so let's do so by taking a look at a few of Schuberth's creations. 

Evening gown circa 1950 via Cornette de Saint Cyr

Evening gown circa 1950 via Cornette de Saint Cyr

Silk chiffon evening dress circa 1955/1956. Collection Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti, Florence. Photo: Gabinetto fotografico SBAS, Mauro Carrier. 

Silk chiffon evening dress circa 1955/1956. Collection Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti, Florence. Photo: Gabinetto fotografico SBAS, Mauro Carrier. 

Silk evening gown, 1951

Silk evening gown, 1951

            1950's silk chiffon evening gown via Chez Sarah.

            1950's silk chiffon evening gown via Chez Sarah.

Evening dress, 1950s

Evening dress, 1950s

Evening gown circa 1950 via Cornette de Saint Cyr

Evening gown circa 1950 via Cornette de Saint Cyr

Cocktail dress circa 1948/1950 via Cornette de Saint Cyr

Cocktail dress circa 1948/1950 via Cornette de Saint Cyr

Fitting Sophia Loren for a gown in 1951. 

Fitting Sophia Loren for a gown in 1951. 

Fitting Empress Soraya of Persia for an evening gown in 1953, 

Fitting Empress Soraya of Persia for an evening gown in 1953, 

Pictured with models in his designs, 1953

Pictured with models in his designs, 1953

 

Feature image is a gown from 1951.

Style Staple: Vintage Bedouin-Style Jewelry

Style Staple: Vintage Bedouin-Style Jewelry

Sustainability, Reframed

Sustainability, Reframed