Best of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2018
Here we are! At the close of fashion month reviewing the final set of collections for Spring 2018 from Paris. Reflecting on the month overall, the New York presentations left me feeling jaded about the state of fashion, but London and Milan gracefully snapped me out of that, albeit in different ways. The clothing from London was exquisitely feminine, but with a strong point of view, while the clothing from Milan was creative, transportative, and subtly innovative.
The Paris collections also delighted me with a particularly French take on fashion innovation: creative variations of timeless pieces, neutral colors, and proven silhouettes. Take, for example, the trench coat, nothing if not a decades-old wardrobe staple. It came down the runway in so many manifestations I stopped counting.
It was that precise French brand of calculated timelessness, delivered with a fresh twist, that came across in so many of the collections that resonated with me. Here they are:
I found this collection, with its decorated minimalism, so compelling. Céline has always been a label rooted in the sense that less done well isn't actually less at all. This collection felt like it embodied that spirit. And it inspired me to think of different ways to layer and drape and wrap what I own to transform what I have into something that feels new and exciting and different. Shouldn't that be what a creative collection of clothing inspires us to do?
Images by Monica Feudi/Indigital.tv via Vogue
I'm not normally strongly drawn to the Saint Laurent aesthetic, but this collection was exceptional. The pieces that stood out to me were, strangely enough, variations on the mini-dress, which is a cut I'm not normally strongly drawn to either. But the spark of innovation here couldn't be denied. Plumes of feathers gracefully jutting from a neckline! Asymmetrical silk accents with glorious texture and dimension! What's not to love?
Images: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv via Vogue
Ellery might have been my favorite collection from Paris. How I loved the various interpretations of those balloon sleeves! It's a rare collection that captures exactly how I want to be dressing right now. In New York, Sies Marjan sent out this wondrous sage green look that had that effect. In London, it was Preen. In Paris, it was Ellery. What's interesting is that these collections don't look very much like each other, which leads me to believe that a wide range of fashion can reflect the cultural and social zeitgeist in very different ways and still end up looking and feeling relevant in its own way.
Images courtesy Ellery via Vogue
A year ago, if you asked me whether I'd love such a soft, romantic collection of clothing, I'd likely say no. But our tastes and preferences and sensibilities are subject to so many forces that make them moving targets. In my case, the last year has seen me warm considerably to the romanticism of puffed sleeves, soft colors, and relaxed silhouettes. I adored the ankle-length of many of the collection's pieces.
Images courtesy Vika Gazinskya via Vogue
For Rochas, Alessandro Dell’Acqua did a wonderful job of playing with silhouette, print, volume, and texture. Within the collection, the clothes were feminine and interesting, but in such different ways. Some pieces were cut close to the form, tight and revealing, while others experimented with exaggerated empire waists and drop waists to produce a markedly different type of feminine garment. And the material was such a feast for the eyes!
Image: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv via Vogue
If you have thus far been unable to tell, Parisian fringe clearly did a number on me and here I am doubling down by including so many fringed pieces from Nina Ricci. I'm all about clothes doing a little bit of movement on our behalf and this delicate, soft fringe is so good for that! I also loved the range of colors presented in the collection- bold hues that maintained a quality of softness with their de-saturated subtlety.
Images: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv via Vogue
I can't get this fantastic boxy gingham blazer from Sonia Rykiel and its attendant clam shell brooch out of my head.
...and the bright simplicity of this interesting yellow dress from Jacquemus.
Finally, at least two collections, Rodarte on the left, and Alexis Mabille on the right, had me thinking: why, oh why, am I not accessorizing liberally with flowers?!
That's it for Spring 2018! I'd love to hear whether the collections presented this month resonated with you, how they made you feel about fashion, and whether they inspired you in expected or unexpected ways.